Best Face Forward

World Wide Packaging offers a wide selection of cosmetic containers.

Research proves consumers love makeup, and as the market grows, so do the packaging innovations.

Written by Leah Genuario, Contributing Editor

Beauty routines aren’t usually complete without a brush, a dash or a dab of makeup to brighten the face and accentuate positive attributes. While women gravitate to the colors offered inside, it’s likely that it was the striking packaging that first caught their eye, long before the product was applied.

Both brands and the packagers who supply them have reason to feel content, as the overall category is growing. The color cosmetic market has realized an 11% sales increase since 2004, according to a July report from global intelligence supplier Mintel. While the entire market has seen reasonable increases, some sub-segments particularly stand out for stellar performance.

Lips Rank High

Among them is the lipstick and gloss category, where 76% of surveyed women in Mintel’s report say it’s a must-have in their makeup bag. The survey additionally found that most women utilize lip makeup six times a week.

“Incidence of lipstick or lipgloss usage increases with age,” says Kat Fay, senior beauty analyst at Mintel. “As women get older, lip color is a relatively easy way to brighten up the face without having to put on a face full of makeup.”

The packaging accompanying lip-related cosmetics is also a bright spot within the overall cosmetic market. Packaging has evolved to offer a variety of forms, materials, colors and applicator choices.

Silicone applicator tips for click and twist pens, as well as lipgloss tubes, are increasingly in demand, says Michael Salemi, COO, The Packaging Company. “Several years ago, the standard for lipgloss and lipstick was either lipstick or doe-foot applicators. In addition to the silicone applicator demand, lipstick/lip color is now being featured in compacts and small pot containers, which are applied with a brush,” he adds.

Other trends within the lip category have emerged. Among them, product has taken center stage with package designs that showcase unique formulations. Commenting on this, Damien Dossin, vice president of sales, Topline Products Company, Inc., says, “Packaging is segmented to show color and skin care elements separately or to separate the color and shine ingredients such as tube-in-tube lipgloss delivery systems.”

Multi-functional lip packages are also enjoying popularity, according to Dossin. For example, Topline teamed with L’Oréal on its Infallible package to offer consumers a stick and gloss in one package. The metallized housing provides a small mirror for product application.

And when it comes to lip-related cosmetics, it appears more is more. Brands aren’t skimping on formula and packagers are responding. ISPEC, Inc. offers 30 different types of twist pen and click pen packaging, with new ones reaching 6ml capacity. This is a departure from the past, says company president Chuck Lee, as the largest capacity often maxed out at 2.5ml.

On a similar note, OEKAbeauty, partnering with ABA Packaging in North America, has launched Boost-Your-Lips! and Double-Boost-Your-Lips!, lipgloss applicators designed with a reservoir to increase the amount of gloss on the tip. “This design allows the consumer to apply much more product to their lips in a single application,” says Frank Bierkandt, assistant general manager of OEKAbeauty.

Eye Spy

Innovation doesn’t stop with the lips, however. Eye makeup, as a category, is reporting impressive growth. Since 2004, Mintel notes a staggering 38% increase in eye makeup sales, boosted by one of the fastest growing segments in color cosmetics: mascara. According to Mintel, 65% of survey respondents currently use mascara, while 63% apply eyeshadow and 62% report using liner.

No surprise then, that mascara boasts innovative packaging within the applicator category. Dossin notes the fad toward mascara brushes that oscillate and pulsate. ISPEC’s Lee says they’re currently working on a battery-operated rotating brush. Also energizing the market are plastic molded brushes in eye-catching colors, although some say this trend has reached its outer limit.

“For mascara, a tremendous amount of R&D has been done in the field of application with a primary focus on the brushes,” says Bierkandt. “Within the last five years, plastic molded brushes have increased their market share, but apparently have peaked and conventional fiber brushes have regained that market share now.”

Bierkandt adds that plastic brushes “do not bring any better performance than fiber brushes” and are “not perceived as innovation anymore.” In addition, fiber brushes “offer more opportunities for design modifications and innovations without the typically higher tooling costs associated with molded brush projects.”

Convenience Drives Design

Convenience is also a major driver for cosmetic packaging design, no matter what the sub-category. In a busy society, many women complete their beauty regimes away from home or don’t have time to return to their vanities for a touch-up. This has had a major impact on color cosmetic packaging design.

Lollipop mascara, from Geka, is offered in response to the demand for on-the-go, convenient products.

“Convenience is always a popular option when it comes to cosmetic packaging. Packages that are easy to use and have the ability to manage multiple formulas seem to be on the increase in popularity,” comments Shannon Payne, vice president of sales for World Wide Packaging (WWP).

Applicators are sometimes developed specifically to save time. For example, New High Glass notes that in nail polish packaging, there is an increase in the use of flat brushes. “It applies wider, meaning treatment or polish can be completed in fewer strokes,” adds Ana Levy, sales account representative.

Convenience was a motivating factor when HCT Packaging worked with the Urban Decay brand to launch both the Stardust eyeshadows and the Summer of Love limited edition palette.

Urban Decay’s Stardust eyeshadows feature a lightweight case designed to allow a user the ability to open it with one hand. Utilizing an innovative opening mechanism, the case simply requires a squeeze to pop the lid. This design speaks to a consumer’s need for an easy-to-use product, as it enables a consumer to use one hand for opening and holding the case and another for applying the shadow.

Playing to the trend of multiple formulas packaged together, Urban Decay’s Summer of Love Palette packages four shadows and an eyeliner into a slim, cardboard kit. Created for convenience, “The kit is small enough to fit into a handbag with the design allowing it to withstand any potential everyday knocks,” adds Nick Gardner, executive VP, HCT CA.

Portability is a major variable in convenient packaging design, as is interactivity with the product. “When a product or package is interactive with the consumer and appeals to all of their senses, it surprises and delights the consumer and there is a greater chance for repurchase. Portability is a strong factor in buying decisions,” says Topline’s Dossin.

As an example, Geka worked on the dial&STYLE mascara packaging, a nod to interactive packaging, which enables the consumer to select the application she wants according to her mood or the event she’s primping for. For ultimate portability, Geka also produced the Lollipop mascara, a one-use product targeted specifically to travelers and other on-the-go consumers.

The Prodigy lipgloss by Hourglass, designed by HCT Packaging, is another excellent example of portable design. The flat construction of the package allows it to fit neatly and discretely into a pocket or small handbag. It doesn’t require a wand for application, but rather utilizes an ergonomic dispensing tip. The design was chosen from HCT’s new stock range of slim pocket gloss containers and customized through a logo, tampo printing and vacuum metallization.

Decorative Dilemma

When it comes to cosmetic packaging decoration, two clear—and opposing—trends have emerged. On the one hand, some brands strive for simple, sophisticated design. On the other, brands leverage multiple decorative techniques to communicate fun and stand out on shelf. Which trend is more popular at the moment is a matter of opinion, and some argue there’s plenty of room for both.
“One of the exciting aspects of color cosmetics is the customer and market diversity. This diversity allows for both minimalist and elaborate designs across all market segments, requiring primary packaging suppliers to expand their design window for maximum market penetration,” says Payne of WWP.

That being said, one supplier notes a definite uptick in more flashy decorations. “We have seen a huge increase in the development of eye-catching designs. Spray color coating, with and without texture, have become quite popular and multi-pass decorations are becoming almost a default on most packages that we produce,” says Bierkandt of Germany-based OEKAbeauty.

Some of these observations may vary depending on the geographic markets served, notes another supplier. “Decoration, as in ‘bling-bling’, flashy packaging is more in demand in the Asian, Russian and Middle Eastern markets. In Europe and the U.S., perceived value is more weighted on the subtlety of the presentation and finish,” says Salemi.

Material Selection

Aside from traditional decorating techniques such as ink and coating technologies, another way to achieve desired effects and effectively communicate brand image is through material selection. The current marketplace offers plentiful examples of interesting materials leveraged in packaging design to make a point.

Urban Decay and HCT Packaging tapped bamboo as the star material in this palette.

For example, Danish organic and natural beauty brand, Tromborg, teamed with HCT Packaging to create packaging that utilized Zamac over plastic for a prestigious look. Regarding the award-winning lipstick design, Rebecca Goswell, creative director for HCT, says, “The idea behind the design was to be as minimal as possible—with an unusual and dramatic split line and subtle hidden magnetic closure adding to its retro-luxe aesthetic.” She adds, “Lines are clean and geometric, as this forms part of a complete range of square Zamac compacts and mini-kits. The added weight of Zamac over plastic helps to add prestige.”

HCT Packaging also worked with Urban Decay to launch a bamboo palette to market. Although the palette is stunningly decorated, the naturally occurring, easily replenished bamboo material makes its own statement.

Other material innovations abound. To highlight the use of Eastman Chemical’s glass polymer in cosmetic packaging, Marc Rosen and Associates developed a series of innovative designs. Eastman Chemical then teamed with six packaging suppliers—Jackel; Axilone, USA;Alcan, Brazil; Leidel; Pieriplast; and Plasmetik—to introduce a series of makeup packaging collections.

“We created the designs to extol the virtues of The Glass Polymer—heavy, clear walls, very sharp corners and great quality. Things you can’t do with other plastics,” explains Rosen. Each makeup collection includes a compact, a lipstick tube and a lipgloss, and all will debut at Luxe Pack Monaco in October.